Istanbul cannot exist without its ancient identity

On September 19th, I gave a talk in Istanbul with the theme City and Culture. Istanbul lies on the Bosporus and with her beautiful rolling skyline is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Modern Istanbul is growing with a total population of 19 million. The booming economy has led to the construction of new roads and bridges, a tunnel that connects Europe to the Asian part is in preliminary stages.
There is a network of public transportation with modern trams, futuristic busses and speed ferries. The city has prepared itself well for tourism. Many monuments have been restored, and hotels and restaurants are overflowing. Hip bars have been surprisingly turned into penthouses on existing residential buildings constructed with 360-degree views of the city.

The city is bursting with energy. The next step that Istanbul wants to take is to also become a cultural hub. There is currently a Museum of Modern Art and art festivals and biennales are being organised. That is success.  Artists and galleries establish themselves with the museum and there is an exchange programme set up with another emerging culture city, Berlin.

During the opening of the Biennale, a conference has been organised with the theme City and Culture. International architects show how the construction of new museums, concert halls and libraries act as catalysts for urban renewal, attracting large groups of tourists and bring in money.
And it’s not only the quality of the building, but also the public space around it: new squares are being created in the city. The public is enthusiastic about the beautiful images that are displayed.

A Turkish architect creates the opportunity to take a stand against the current policy of the city. The beautiful skyline of the hills of Istanbul is marred by high-rise glass towers which are springing up on every corner. This is not Dubai, he says. The city needs a vision, a masterplan which defines where highrises can and cannot go. To begin with, the historic city should be protected. Why in the last 20 years was it allowed to build 20 American style shopping malls? Not to mention the rise of the gated communities on the edge of town as the new living lifestyle. When he finished, the time for debate was up unfortunately.

Late the next morning, a Turkish colleague of mine shows me the restoration of a 300-year-old Hammam which will be returned to its use as a bath house. It is the private initiative of a wealthy client.
Proudly he shows us the craftsmanship of the builders who are still practicing traditional building techniques. We drive through the streets of the old city with its many informal shops. The rooms above are no longer occupied, but used as storage. That’s why it’s so quiet here in the evenings.

The city council should push to have living space made available here for young people, he says.
There is the real need! Istanbul was for centuries the city of trade, of many cultures and beliefs living side by side.  Poor and rich intermixed.  That is the strength, the identity and the culture of Istanbul. Gated communities don’t belong. Of course modern museums, concert halls and libraries should be included, but only on the condition that in the globalizing world, you first have a vision on the unique culture of your own city.

Francine Houben is architect/director of Mecanoo architecten, Delft